Discerning (stingy)

We spend 30 reais (about ten pounds at the current exchange rate) and hire two mountain bikes from Catarino’s to get us to the Balnearos and the Boia cross. Both attractions are run by neighbouring farms and sit close together, so we cycle the 6km bike ride taking in more of “downtown” Bonito (it’s a tiny town) on the way. Lucy is very happy with her bike as it sports a very ladylike basket on the front. Lucy sports a sophisticated European look wearing a sorbet yellow cardigan and blue strappy sandals by H and M.

The water of the balnearos is super cold. We were offered wetsuits near the entrance but becoming the ever discerning (stingy) travellers we are, we refused them deciding instead to just wear our swimwear. After spending twenty shrivelling minutes in the water, I wished I had taken up the offer. The Balnearos is a calm section of the river in which a small tourist center has been constructed. Shaped in an elongated “S”, tourists are encouraged to swim in the designated area and also buy fish food for a small fee. Fish feeding frenzies are common but look even better through the lens of a snorkel mask. Local tourist information states that sun cream should not be worn in the water so as not contribute to anything that might cloud the water. Whilst being greener than advertised, the river waters delivered a greater clarity than I had expected showing the large numbers of fish going about their business. Floating still in the waters grants you fishy confidence as they allow you close to inspect them. When snorkelling, the slow current drives you along as you slowly become a part of their world, but do this for long enough and the fish even begin following you in large shifty schools. Turn around and you’ll see.

Later we move onto the Boia cross toobin’ experience which is set in a fast moving river complete with waterfalls and an innovative rope guide system. We have two guides who herd our group ensuring the flock doesn’t go too far off track and they spin us when we reach the small waterfalls. “Can you swim?” Says the guide before sending us into heavy rotation. The river frequently eats us up and spits out but the guides are there to pull us out of the cold clear water. It is on this day we receive our biggest mosquito bites to date. Seems they are partial to my ankles and Lucy’s legs, giving us our biggest mosquito love bites yet. Two bites are positioned in such a way (resembling the mark of a vampiric suitor) that they make my left ankle swell, leaving me limping for the following evening.

We leave slightly sleepy Bonito refreshed and sun kissed again as the weather continues to improve. Skin still tingly from the nip of sun, we board the many connecting buses throughout the night on the way to Igacu falls.