Maccchhhhooooo Piiiiccchhhhooooooooo.
After a multitude of half listened to instructions and directions, we board another packed minibus to the awesomely titled Ollyantaytambo station. The mankibus is shoulder to shoulder as we travel through the meat markets of Cusco weaving between cars and carcasses equally.
Ollyantaytambo station caters exclusively for tourists on their way to Macchu Pichu and the quality of decor magically improves at the border of the gated entrance equalling the splendour of Nuneaton train station. Signs are omni-language, uniforms look comparatively impeccable and the waiting room cafe has a sad looking Peruvian playing panpipes to backing tracks in full-faux Incan regalia. No one is buying his CDs today.
The Inca rail train rattles onward towards Aguascalientes, the base of Macchu Pichu as even more pre-recorded touristic panpipes toot the soundtrack to our journey. Alongside us flows a river that continues to aggressively carve itself a route from its mountain origin to a hydroelectric power station that generates power for over sixty percent of Peru. The river flows a rich chocolate milk colour, the colour of the mountain soil say the guides (and the colour of pollution say I). The journey’s view is breathtaking through the train’s roof residing observatory windows. Also through the windows we see the many brave travellers plodding the Inca trail towards Machu Pichu on foot (an option we decided to forego due to Lucy’s still tender knee).
We reach the end of the line and are met by a representative who leads us through Aguascalientes which becomes an experience in itself. A perfect balance of hyper-touristic and bewildering, we are led through dense market stalls selling an accomplished collection of tat, jewellery, tshirts, handbags, llama based souvenirs and splayed open animal cadavers for your delectation.
Also in the town, (but not on the menu thankfully) is an extremely furless, ugly, rare breed of dog. Imagine a Chinese crested breed with its face smashed in, raped an Alsatian. It also appears dually naked and looking like it is wearing an oily wetsuit. Weirdly, it has been dressed in a Chelsea FC kit. The only fur it does have resides on its head like a wispy (and slightly eerie) Mohican. It really is the stuff of nightmares. Later on we see two of these dogs having sex, presumably given the rarity of this breed, it is an incestuous relationship. Given the horrific look of this dog, inbred defects could only be an improvement to its appearance. Also predictably, the freaky boy dog gets his freaky penis trapped in freaky girl dog’s woo-woo. The world suddenly feels a bit wrong and wobbly.
We arrive at Hotel Veronica which has no front door or reception desk. A man actually lives under the stairs who comes out of his hole and gives us our key. He is also in charge of remote controls for the TV in our room but he doesn’t relinquish them easily. Next door to our room is a massage parlour and I have to surmise, this is a place in which “extras” are often offered. Where the eff are we?!
The streets of Aguascalientes are ablaze with kids in Halloween costumes cradling the saccharin sweet spoils of their bounty. At the center of the main square is an Incan deity that is lit by cheap looking LEDs with bars and restaurants surrounding the Aguascalienten centerpiece. Pushy street hawkers persistently try their luck in trying to sell us items or push us into bars along the many steps through the place. Aguascalientes is not a great place to be and we look forward to getting to Macchu Pichu the next day.
Up at five thirty, we get the third bus up to to the entrance of Machoooo Pichooooo. Our guide Jo-el is late and creates tension as the sun begins to slip through our fingers negating possible dramatic photo opportunities. We finally arrive to the absolute majesty of Machu Pichu and Wayna Pichu as the sun casts it’s rays onto the ancient city, slicing through cloud, framing the venerable postcard generator perfectly. The clouds behave beautifully, almost on command, creating a veritable cloud kingdom, but never get in the way of the shot. Bravo! An impeccable performance.
Lucy is in absolute awe as the Incan site jumps to the top of her “favourite things” list. We devour the views with a hearty nom nom nom nom, and it seems physically impossible to take a bad photo.
The site is incredibly well maintained and is carpeted by a terrain hugging layer of low cut grass. Armies of technicians pick and prune the site diligently in the background. Wild llamas stake their claim to sections of the site and posture themselves high in the remains looking regal and preposterous at the same time.
We are shown around the ruins which gives context and an insider sense of scale to the place. Sacrificial rooms and suspiciously well formed relics litter the site ranging from floor mounted star observatories to the the Condor room which looked a bit like a Condor I suppose.
We take a stroll to the sun gate which allows a wide scale cinematic perspective of Machu Pichu. The walk is sweaty and long but ultimately rewarding as we look down onto the antediluvian structures.
The incredible site sights leave us with indelible memories of the only reason to come to Peru. An unforgettable, truly awe-inspiring day.